The "MODERN MATERIALS" method typically uses lighter scantlings, no chine strips {sometimes called "logs"}, few or no permanent fastenings, epoxy / fiberglass sheathed. Because it uses epoxy fillets to hold it’s shape, it really can’t be moved until the hull is finished. Building time is therefore temperature dependent. For timely construction, and good looking non-starved joints, the epoxy must set-up in a reasonable time. The fillet mixture shouldn’t sag or ‘drain away’ before it reaches the ‘gel stage’. For vertical surfaces the minimum is probably about 50 degrees F; 40 degrees F for flat, horizontal ones.

From the catalogs received, most of the plans listed are based on ‘traditional’ techniques.{many are apparently relatively old as well}. They may use ‘modern’ materials like plywood or epoxy, but still rely on multiple frame and chine log construction. Even some that specify "S-N-G" require building assembly forms and molds. Of course, each seems to point to a specific building frame for each boat design. HOWEVER, the " 2 X 10 " frame called out by John Gardner seems to be the simplest. If I don’t intend to go over 12 feet overall, extending it to " 2 X 12 " shouldn’t present a problem. Building a ‘Universal Strongback’ from pressure treated 2 x 6 x 12's and 2 x 4 spreaders, bolted together, would be fairly cheap. { and ‘collapsible’ for space saving storage } The drawback with pressure treated is that it seems to "wet" and warps when it drys. RED CEDAR is available for a little more money, but is lighter, dry, and seems to ‘hold true’. The molds could be cut, in the solid, from 7/16 inch OSB or Waferboard and attached with 3/4 inch plywood ‘angles’ and 2 x 4 ‘blocks’.

A ‘free plan’ included in one of the catalogs, uses construction methods along traditional lines. "Frames" and a "Building Ladder" are called out. Of course a set of "Stitch-N-Glue" plans are available for $35.xx. Again, this points out the value of a ladder frame. Also, NOT all plans have a "Stitch-N-Glue" version. HOWEVER, the methods of the "S-N-G" technique can be combined with the traditional; lighter scantlings can be used.

One of the seemingly ‘universal’ design points in "S-N-G" is DEEP (Sticking far into the interior space from the hull skin) FRAMES. This may be due to the pressures exerted by the sides during assembly, or because there are only a FEW frames. By using square sectioned frames and chine strips, along with clamps and gunnels, more interior room could be achieved.

As a fairly general rule the hull material will be 1/4 inch ply. LAUAN; A-C; Marine Grade; your wallet - your choice. Battens will vary between 1/4 inch LAUAN and ½ inch ply. If Bolger’s "NYMPH" is any guide, the gunnels will tend toward 1 inch thick. This will give a 1-1/4 inch total thickness at the sheer. I would add an inwale or inner clamp to increase this dimension. I like to have the outwale replaceable and hold it in place with drywall screws. SILICON BRONZE { Beautiful!} or MARINE STAINLESS is expensive. A good {1000 hour salt spray certified}, inexpensive alternate is McFEELY’s NO-CO-RODE drywall screws, but the minimum length is 1-1/4 inches.

I’ve gone through the six most popular design catalogs and where there is a gunnel at all this dimension seems to hold.. Jay Benford’s book calls out a 1-1/2 inch half-round in one 11-1/2 ft. design - simple, neat, and gives a 1-3/4 inch total thickness at the sheer.

The options seem to be ‘adjust’ the design or go to the stainless screws. {bronze for clear finish or ‘customer special order’ only} 1 inch, 1-1/4 inch, and 2 inch seem to be the most useful sizes. The 2 inch is basically for skegs and keels. The Deep or Course thread design seems to give greater holding power.

While GLEN-L Marine seems to have the cheapest price for bronze screws, the shipping from CALIFORNIA is a killer!! JAMESTOWN DISTRIBUTORS for an East Coast source of SILICON BRONZE screws and other ‘hardware’. McFEELY’s seems to be the best source for "sheetrock square drive" screws. CLARK CRAFT has WOOD FLOUR, so now I have another source. RAKA MARINE for epoxy & cloth. MERTONS FIBERGLASS SUPPLY for fillers & ‘stuff ‘.

The "problems" with RUBENS NYMPH illustrate what a learning experience is. And the VALUE of patience.

The Aniline dye, on the transoms, was perfect. Once ‘aged’ it didn’t even ‘bleed’ when the epoxy was applied. However, a couple of errors in subsequent procedures had me kicking myself;

FIRST ERROR - adding TO MUCH WHITE ‘filler’ for second, or fill, epoxy coat.

SECOND ERROR - NOT WAITING for a ‘hard dry’ on the varnish before painting the surrounding area with WHITE PAINT.

The epoxy makes a VERY HARD surface. The smoothness depends on the prep work and timing.

The reason for using paint is to protect the surface it covers; from ‘ageing’ and time / weather damage. Varnish, with UV filters, does the same, but allows the surface to show through.

If the material is a "solid" wood, like the Mahogany of the ‘classic’ runabout, then simply using multiple coats of finish is enough.

Paint (OPAQUE paint as opposed to TRANSLUCENT colors), is sort of self-explanatory. Everyone knows it by it’s nature, it’s long history, the books & articles available, and the usually complete instructions on every can. It’s maintenance is simple and logical, and the indications of it’s need of repair or replacement are fairly obvious.